We started with brief foray further North and further West. We drove past some sheep, nice beaches and massive cliff faces on our way to Capo Caccia, so that we could climb up and down a massive staircase. This was good, but (in my opinion) where the day (the first part of the day) started to fall apart.
The Capo Caccia staircase is a work of magic. Once you get to the bottom, the grotto is very interesting. But we discovered that you needed to buy tickets for the tour up at the top. So we hung out for a few minutes and climbed back up.
We arrived in Ozieri because we both thought that the other wanted to go there. Not really, actually. We bought some meat and crackers for lunch and hit the road again. I got stuck behind a bunch of slow moving trucks. After watching countless cars go blowing by with the sketchiest of passes, I pulled out my inner Italian and went for it. I ended up pulling in to a turning lane and I thought it was a rather safe option - a long straight stretch with no cars and plenty of room to pass. The Carabieneri waiting at the end of the straight-away didn't think so. We got pulled over and I honestly thought we were going to get arrested. The first guy was pretty large and stern looking. He spoke no English but we got the idea that he wanted our papers and insurance info. He called his buddy over who spoke a bit of English. He said things like "take away" while holding my license and looked rather stern. Then he made me get out of the car. He showed me the turning lane. Then asked where I was from. "Canada." That seemed to make them laugh a bit. They asked me what I did for a living. "Engineer." They thought that was hilarious. Somehow, things seemed to turn around at this point. They gave us back our stuff, continued laughing and told us not to pass in a turning lane. I thought it would be pushing our luck to ask for a photograph.
We continued on to the East. Not sure where, but East. The terrain was quite open through here, with rolling green hills and the odd cork tree. Very nice.
Sardinia World Rally. Pretty cool. Of course, no photos.
We neared Olbia and still weren't sure where to go. We headed South. We hit San Teodoro and decided to head North and look for a place to stay. There wasn't much. We pulled in to an Agriturismo Bed & Breakfast but they didn't offer dinner so we kept going. They had lots of dogs and a nice axe.
Agriturismo and followed it. And followed it. For a while. It was obvious that we had missed it somehow. Another sign and...success.
Here is the good and bad of zen navigation, all within the space of a few hours. To go from hours of angst filled driving to stumbling upon an unexpected gem of perfection is what it is all about. Agriturismo Caldosa is exactly what we were looking for.
For 100 Euros per day we received:
- A large, comfortable room
- Dinner that just seemed to go on and on - wine included
- The run of a farm filled with pigs, cows, sheep, olive and cork trees, etc.
Honestly, it was perfect.
This was the main kite-surfing beach. It was only a 5 minute walk to get away from the craziness.
google maps, things get a bit more hectic in the summer. The beach borders a lagoon that is filled with wild birds and flamingos. Well, not filled. But there's lots of them.
The space between Olbia and Santa Teresa represents yacht land for rich people. It was nice enough to drive through, but I sort of felt like it wasn't really for me.
Santa Teresa in the off-season is the definition of a sleepy town. Even though it's the site of the main ferry between Corsica and Sardinia, it was dead. It was tough to even figure out a rental car company that had an office open so that I could drop the car off. Half the restaurants were closed. The ferry was only running once or twice a day. Dead.
Just West of Santa Teresa is Capo Testa, land of the weird rocks. Right at the point is a lighthouse surrounded by crazy rocks. There're a few small beaches scattered about.
google map image. On the ground it is just as impressive and is a nice little spot for a swim.
Bottarga, a cured fish roe. Man, it was good.
Update - I forgot to mention that we also got pulled over by the Carabieniri on our way up to Santa Teresa. They were just standing on the side of the road and looked bored. It actually took longer than when we got pulled over for doing something wrong. We were less afraid the second time around.